Want to have breakfast on one continent, lunch on another, and dinner back where you started -- without getting on an airplane? Sounds like you need some Turkey in your travel diet. Come mix metaphors with us and dip your toes into one of the world's great cities: Istanbul.
A quick word on Istanbul's airport: you can fly absolutely anywhere from Istanbul. It's incredible to scan the departures and arrivals board at the new IST (Havalimani); it's a virtual master class in political geography from what appears to be the center of the world.
For any skeptical American travelers out there: don't punt Turkey as a destination because of what you see in the media or hear from your xenophobic neighbor or because you have to apply for a visa in advance. Turkey is one of the most beautiful, welcoming places in the world, and Istanbul was actually one of Globepouncing's exciting last-minute trips. We woke up in the (late) morning with no plans, and we were on a plane by 6:00 p.m. with visas sorted. Who doesn't love days like that? Visit Turkey's e-Visa Application System to sort your Turkish visa electronically. The iVisa site is another option. The iVisa site has clear answers to all the FAQs and explicitly guarantees processing times, but it's a touch more expensive. Meh.
We think we hit the jackpot with accommodation for a last-minute trip: we stayed at the Erguvan, a well-run, family-owned boutique hotel with large rooms, free breakfast, and a great location minutes away on foot from Sultanahmet Square, the heart of Old City, where you'll find the Blue Mosque (Sultan Ahmet Camii), the Hagia Sofia (Ayasofya), the Basilica Cistern, and several other historic sites and relics.
We found Istanbul to be very walkable overall. From the Old City, we had no trouble reaching the Grand Bazaar, the Egyptian Market, all the other mosques and squares we could handle, and the bridges crossing the Golden Horn.
Istanbul's Old City is a historical district with few peers. It can, of course, become crowded during the day, but if you take an early morning stroll before the 8:00 a.m. tour buses roll in you'll have the place to yourself. I took a walk from around 6:30 to 7:30, and it was perfect. To the right, you can see the Obelisk of Theodosius, the Walled Obelisk, and the Blue Mosque -- sans hordes of tourists.
One place I didn't know existed until we arrived is the Basilica Cistern. I had never seen anything quite like it: an enormous ancient underground water storage facility constructed with hundreds of beautifully crafted classical columns repurposed from temples that were already ruined by the 6th century CE. At the Basilica Cistern, you can see the famous Medusa head pedestals and weeping column. It is as impressive a classical site as any temple, arena, or villa.
You can also have fashion shots taken while costumed as an Ottoman sultan down in the Basilica Cistern...if you're into that sort of thing.
I would say that the Basilica Cistern was my number one favorite site in Istanbul if it weren't for the Hagia Sofia. I know - predictable. Don't care. The thing about both of these treasures is the grandeur of their scale. These places can utterly dwarf and humble you yet simultaneously make you proud to be a human.
The Aya Sofya also houses impressive Byzantine-era Christian mosaics and a sleepy kitty cat.
Update: Since our visit in 2019, the Aya Sofya has ceased to be a museum and has been reinstated as an active mosque. Unfortunately, this likely reduces a tourist's ability to explore it.
Out of doors, we definitely recommend taking a boat ride on the Bosphorus Strait. We took a boat from the Kabatas ferry dock up the European side to the Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge -- I'd say about two-fifths of the way up the Bosphorus toward the Black Sea -- and back down the Asian side. You can see the route very clearly on this map at the dock:
On a sunny day, this boat ride is the perfect short excursion. It was one of the best short boat rides we've had.
The Ortaköy Mosque and Rumeli Castle are particularly photogenic in the afternoon sun, and you can visit the opulent Dolmabahce Palace beforehand or afterwards.
A wide building with Neoclassical and Baroque architectural influences and plenty of gardens and landscaping, Dolmabahce Palace will remind you of other sprawling European palace grounds such as Schönbrunn, Versailles, Buckingham, Sans Souci, and others. This one just happens to be on a continental border.
Checking out the bazaars can also be fun. We enjoyed the Grand Bazaar. If you're in need of a tea set, look no further. There are plenty of textiles: towels, blankets, placemats, pillows, etc. You can find antiques, clothing, jewelry, other housewares - pretty much anything. It's a nice place to escape the sun for a coffee and some people-watching. We bought a blanket. Istanbul's Grand Bazaar is among our favorite markets; it ranks up there with Il Mercato di San Lorenzo in Florence and the Muttrah Gold Souk in Muscat.
We found the Egyptian (Spice) Bazaar a hassle, though, if only because the roads around it, which are lined with endless shops themselves, are impossibly crowded. I suppose it might be fun to experience something like this for the first time as a novelty, but it doesn't take long before it just becomes annoying, and when you're stuck in the middle, it takes time to escape. It's like quicksand: you can't fight it. You can only hold onto your phone and wallet.
We'll leave you with basic tips on modest dress if you're planning to visit mosques, and this advice is good throughout the Islamic world from Turkey through the Middle East: yes, you have to cover up. Gentlemen: no shorts. Ladies: cover the shoulders, hair, knees, and elbows. Sorry, no exceptions. The signs to the right are posted at the Sultanahmet (Blue) Mosque.
Istanbul is a special place. We had no idea how much we would enjoy it, and we can't wait to visit Turkey again to see what other treasures we can find down the coast and further inland.
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