Where can you go to find beaches, mountains, Western tradition, Eastern flavor, ancient history, and affordability? Perhaps you’re also looking for somewhere with a great climate to retire where you can gain EU permanent residency or citizenship relatively easily and affordably?
Cyprus covers all of the above several times over in an area not much larger than the US state of Delaware.
Today we have a look at highlights in the west and southwest of Aphrodite’s isle that make for comfortable excursions from Paphos.
In Paphos
Especially for a small city, Paphos' two main archaeological attractions are impressive sites: The Tombs of the Kings and Paphos Archaeological Park.
It isn’t uncommon for an archaeological site to be termed a necropolis, but most such places, e.g., the Giza Plateau or the Ruins of Tyre, are mostly or entirely surface-level experiences. The Tombs of the Kings necropolis in Paphos gives visitors the full tomb experience. One can freely descend into several subterranean chambers to observe up-close how wealthy and influential citizens were interred in Paphos in ancient times. Also, as an added bonus, the Tombs of the Kings site is right on the Mediterranean Sea.
Paphos Archaeological Park - also situated on the Mediterranean - sports ancient Greek columns and building foundations and some of the finest ancient mosaics anywhere.
If you're in Paphos, you should also spend some time at the early-Christian Chrysopolitissa Basilica ruins and Gothic church. There you can also find a pillar where - legend has it - the apostle St. Paul was chained and whipped by the people of Paphos. Don't worry, though - they're friends now.
If you're looking for a fabulous meal in Paphos, our number one restaurant recommendation is Hondros. For a seaside caffeinated or adult beverage, try Mar Bianco, which carries The Boss' coffee seal of approval. The cappuccino Viennese is divine. While we're on the topic of food and drink, Cypriot wine anywhere on the island is world-class; it rounds out a strong top-three with Italian and Georgian in our book.
Akamas Peninsula National Park
We found our favorite hiking in Akamas Peninsula National Park in Cyprus' northwest, which overlooks Chrysochou Bay to the north and makes for a great day trip from Paphos. Hikers can follow trails in the park named for Greek mythological figures such as Aphrodite and Adonis, and near the entrance one can also find the 'Baths of Aphrodite,' a small grotto where the goddess herself is purported to have bathed.
Hiking trails in Akamas Peninsula National Park can be muddy in the winter - wear appropriate shoes. You can also rent an ATV to rumble around the park if you wish.
Aphrodite's Rock Microbrewery, a Globepouncing top-five brewery, is on the road between Paphos and Akamas Peninsula. The beer and the food are both stellar. Covid-19 has negatively affected this wonderful brewery, so we wish it a full and speedy recovery.
A Day Along Cyprus' Southwest Coast
Seeing the sights along the southwest edge of Cyprus makes for a great day trip. This excursion includes Aphrodite's Rock (Petra tou Romiou), the Sanctuary of Aphrodite, Ancient Kourion, and the Sanctuary of Apollo Hylates.
Cyprus is home to many idyllic Mediterranean beaches, but one particular stretch in the southwest boasts the magic of myth. According to local legend, the Petra tou Romiou coastal site in Kouklia is the mythological birthplace of Aphrodite.
Does the site match up with Botticelli's masterpiece? We did our best to recreate a Birth of Venus graphic match. You be the judge.
In Kouklia day-trippers can also find the Sanctuary of Aphrodite and the adjacent Medieval Manor House, which houses a small collection of archaeological treasures. In fact, the site predates even the earliest cults of Aphrodite according to Professor Maria Iacovou of the University of Cyprus. Most of what remains at the Sanctuary of Aphrodite today are low-lying foundations, but the footprint of the site is well-kept, and the pedestals and fragments of a fair number of fluted columns are partially reconstructed in colonnades.
Ancient Kourion is a top-shelf archaeological site with ruins of a public bathhouse, an early-Christian basilica, a Roman agora, and several houses, such as the House of Achilles and the House of Gladiators, named for the well-preserved floor mosaics inside. Kourion is also home to a beautiful reconstructed Hellenistic theatre overlooking the sea.
A short drive from the Ancient Kourion site is the Sanctuary of Apollo Hylates, a place of worship associated with Apollo's status as a healer in the Greek Pantheon. Here you'll find more columns, walls, baths, and a partially reconstructed portion of a temple.
Looking for somewhere to retire?
Even though retirement is a long way away for us, we are always on the lookout for good options, and Cyprus presents as a strong option because of the nation's push for foreign investment. As of the publication of this article, one can gain 'fast-tracked' permanent residency, i.e., the 'Golden Visa,' with the potential for a relatively quick path to EU citizenship for a property investment in Cyprus of €300,000.
For the true high-rollers in the audience, certain investments of at least €2,000,000 can grant immediate citizenship.
Even without a property investment, though, one can obtain a retirement visa: the Category F residence permit. An expat can obtain this retirement visa with proof of income, and there are avenues to permanent residency and citizenship via this route as well. It's just not as fast or as easy as the investment routes.
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