Much like the great state of Michigan, the Arabian nation of Oman has its own upper peninsula. Oman's exclave is on the Strait of Hormuz; it's the tippy-tip-tip of the Arabian peninsula and, as such, the closest bit of land in Arabia to Iran - exciting geography, right? Fortunately for travelers, the geology is equally compelling. Those who venture to Oman's UP find rocky coastlines, desert fjords, the deep blue Arabian (Persian) Gulf, and - yes - Iranian smugglers in speedboats.
We had no idea when we moved to the UAE that Oman is well-known for its marine wildlife, particularly dolphins and sea turtles, so that was a fun surprise as well. It's a gorgeous part of the world.
Driving to Oman's Musandam Governorate from Dubai (R, below) or Abu Dhabi (L) is easy. We drove from Abu Dhabi, which adds about 90 minutes to the trip but is still manageable.
The drive follows the Gulf north through the Emirates of Dubai, Sharjah, and Ras Al-Khaimah before crossing into Oman. This border crossing is much less time-consuming than the border crossing into mainland Oman near Al Ain - mostly due to less traffic. You should spend an hour or less crossing. You can rent a car in the UAE and take it to Oman, but you must tell the rental place you're going to Oman, and you must purchase additional insurance. They'll tell you that you have to show proof of this extra insurance at the border. We didn't, but we still wouldn't take that chance. In the UAE, we recommend renting from Dollar Rent-a-Car.
As of early 2018, there was a diplomatic zone on either side of the UAE-Musandam border where one would park, walk into immigration, pay the fee, get a stamp, and then proceed, and this was done twice: once on either side. At the time the fee was relatively low, and visas were available on arrival at the border. This has reportedly changed in the last year, so check into acquiring an e-visa in advance, and be ready to pay more - from $43-$123 (158-451 AED or 16-47 Omani Rial) - depending on speed of processing.
The good news is that Omani e-visas are not difficult to obtain. As of 2019, Oman is in the midst of a push to increase tourism, and, apparently, digitization and price hikes are part of the push. This may dissuade you from taking that last-minute day trip, but a few days up in Musandam planned in advance will still be worth it - go in the winter; the weather is perfect.
The main place to stay in Musandam is the village of Khasab, where there are two nice hotels, Atana Khasab and Atana Musandam (same ownership group). Both have lovely views over the Strait of Hormuz. We chose Atana Khasab because of its situation on a cliffside and because it was a little bit cheaper. Both are minutes away from the main attractions: Khasab Castle and boat tours from Khasab Harbor.
Khasab Castle is a remnant of the Portuguese colonial period and is similar in architecture to other forts in the UAE and Oman. The best part about Khasab Castle is that there are few visitors and nothing is off-limits. You virtually have the place to yourself. It's great for photos - especially ones incorporating the surrounding mountains - and great for letting the kid inside you come out to climb around for an hour.
The dhow boat tours through the desert fjords of Musandam are the main tourism draw. There are several operators - we used Dhow Khasab Tours, but it looks like most operators are the same or similar concerning prices and itineraries. Musandam Sea Adventure looks solid, and their website is more secure than the rest.
The boats are very comfortable with traditional bedouin cushions and lots of space. In fact, there are overnight cruises if you would really like to get comfortable on one of them. We took a half-day dhow cruise that included a stop for a swim and an adventure around Telegraph Island, another leftover from the Portuguese colonial period.
If you're looking for something relaxing and different or you just need to get out of Abu Dhabi for a hot minute, you could certainly do worse than Musandam.
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