Lebanon is one of our favorite spots - we liked it so much we went twice in four months, and we'll go back again. The concentration of history, culture, and beauty in this small nation is remarkable. The key difference in traveling around Lebanon as opposed to Jordan is road travel. One basic issue is that traffic is worse in Lebanon, but there are also regular military security outposts on the roads, especially in certain areas. Under these circumstances, unfortunately, tour groups are the way to go. They pass through checkpoints with ease, and the guides know what is safe and what is not. We used Nakhal for all our tours, and we were mostly happy with them. If you're tall, don't expect comfort on the tour buses, but the sights in Lebanon are well worth a relatively brief period of discomfort. We especially appreciated our guide Cèdre, who took us through Baalbek, perhaps the greatest Roman site still in existence, and kept wild dogs away from us in Anjar, an archaeological site near the Syrian border.
Nakhal tours are not perfect. They often feel rushed. However, considering the roadway concerns in Lebanon, one can appreciate that Nakhal brings people to and from these places with no trouble.
Some people might be turned off by the heavy military presence and volume of barbed wire around Lebanon.
That's understandable. At no point, however, did we feel unsafe. The military there clearly keeps order, and we appreciate that. Even at Anjar, there was no cause for concern. Also, if Hezbollah is a concern for you - which, again, is understandable - consider that locals sell Hezbollah t-shirts, hats, and scarves at Baalbek and other sites where Hezbollah has a presence. I mean, come on: street vendors poke fun with Hezbollah swag. Is Hezbollah great? No. Are they the end of civilization? Please. We went in and out of places in 'yellow' zones with no problem, and we did not meet a Lebanese who wasn't welcoming and friendly.
In addition to Baalbek and Anjar, Byblos and Tyre are both very enjoyable (and very similar). The Byblos archaeological site is an easy trip just a bit north of Beirut.
Tyre is a decent drive south, but it's not too far - about an hour and a half. Along with Byblos, a trip to the Jeita Grotto and up to the Shrine of Our Lady of Harissa overlooking Jounieh are easy. On the way south to Tyre, a stop at the Crusaders Sea Castle and the old souk in Sidon is easy. Nakhal tours hit all these spots although, as previously mentioned, they can feel rushed.
The Beirut airport, Rafic Hariri International, is not the greatest. Our first departure from Beirut was not enjoyable. The airport was overcrowded and we had to stop for passport and security checks at least four times. When you enter the departure terminal, the arrival board will usher you to one side or the other for your first security check (before you even get to the check-in counters). Know that it actually does not matter which side you go through - everyone ends up in the same place on the other side. If one side's line is unduly ridiculous and the other is not, go to the other side.
There are some things to keep in mind concerning our first departure from Rafic Hariri IA: 1) It was August. Everyone was on vacation. Right. 2) RHIA is on high alert because of the Syrian refugee crisis. As in the rest of the country, the formidable military presence is there to keep you, me, and Saif safe (cymbal crash).
We arrived at the airport for our first departure two hours early, and if we didn't skip several lines several times - a common practice in this airport, we found - it would have taken us four or five hours to make it through. We arrived at the airport over four hours early for our second departure this past January, and we made it through in under two hours. Welcome to traveling.
Yes, the US State Department considers Lebanon risky - it often (and currently) carries a Level 3 Travel Advisory. Yes, there is a strong, visible military presence all the time. Yes, Hezbollah is a thing. And yes, Lebanon is exciting and fun, you should go if you understand the risks.
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