We love Jordan. If you were only able to visit one place in the Middle East - apologies to my Lebanese friends - you would have to make sure that place is Jordan. The people, food, diversity of terrain, ease of driving, and excellent airport all make Jordan the ultimate spot to visit in the region.
The Jordan Pass is a great value if you're hitting a bunch of the major tourist destinations in a row or just going to Petra - Petra admission is quite expensive. However, some people like collecting awesome visas in their passports, so know this: the Jordan Pass covers your visa fee, but then you don't receive the awesome Jordan visa stamps that you do if you pay for the visa upon arrival. In fact, the Jordan visa stamps look like old postage stamps - for those into that sort of thing, it's pretty cool.
Drive in Jordan - it's easy. We drove ourselves hitting most of the big spots except Aqaba way down on the Red Sea. If we go back (again), we would hop a quick connecting flight from Amman to Aqaba. The airport is efficient and intuitive - of the dozens we've seen, Queen Alia Airport is the easiest to navigate inside and outside. From the airport, we drove to Jerash, nearby Ajloun Castle, Madaba, all along the Dead Sea, up into the mountains to the Dead Sea Panorama Complex, and south to Petra. Driving down the center of Jordan was an adventure, but along the Dead Sea is the most beautiful drive on Earth.
Beware of sheep traffic:
The hummus in Jordan is superior to the hummus anywhere else. We still haven't quite figured out what it is, but of the dozen-or-so times we had hummus in Jordan, we were blown away every time. At times we thought it was garlic; other times we thought perhaps yogurt or just extra oil - we really have no idea. Maybe it's love. I also thought the fattoush in Jordan was the best. When you're in Jordan, just eat. Eat everything all the time.
One of the best places we sat for coffee and hummus was a small place just a minute downhill from Ajloun Castle called Sumagga Cafe. It's a relaxed place with comfortable seating where you can enjoy a great view. The food and service are wonderful, and it's easy to park your car there for your visit to the castle.
Ajloun and Jerash are up north past Amman. Petra is a few hours to the south near Wadi Rum and closer to Aqaba than Amman. We recommend driving along the Dead Sea and through the mountains rather than down the center of the country. There's far less traffic, and the vast desert mountain views are stunning.
Head into Petra early, and stay nearby. We were shocked at how few people get up early to have this magnificent site to themselves. We splurged and stayed at the Mövenpick across the street, and it was lovely. We were able to snag bread and fruit for the hike through Wadi Musa from the excellent breakfast buffet, and we also had some dried figs and other fruits from a stand near the base of the Monastery climb. Fruit and water (and hummus) will treat you well and not weigh you down when it's hot at Petra. Also know that there are decent bathrooms at the base of the Monastery trail at the somewhat out-of-place (and dubiously-reviewed) Crowne Plaza Basin Restaurant.
My words poetic would only be pathetic if I tried to do Petra justice, but be aware that the droppings of horses, mules, and camels are ubiquitous as are the flies that accompany them. If you don't use some insect repellent, be prepared for an arm workout that will rival your all-day-hike leg workout.
There's a bar at the Petra complex that claims to be the oldest bar on Earth: Cave Bar. Maybe it is; maybe it isn't; without a doubt, though, it is an old Nabataean tomb and a fine place to sit.
At the Dead Sea, we stayed at the - surprise! - Dead Sea Spa Hotel, which was a decent value. The food was expensive and mediocre, especially at dinner. Breakfast was solid. Piña coladas were actually pretty good, but the beer selection wasn't great. If you want better provisions, drive up to the Dead Sea Panorama Complex. The DSPC serves brews from an Amman brewery called Carakale, has excellent local wine, and offers unbeatable views across the Dead Sea.
Let's talk about wine for a moment. For our money, Jordan has some of the best wine in the world. The climate there is, of course, perfect for vineyards. Jordanian reds boast a richness of flavor - a certain gravitas, if you will - that we have not experienced in the wines of any other region.
The Dead Sea Spa Hotel has a good beach with salt crystal formations and plenty of high-quality Dead Sea black mud. It can become rather crowded, but the same goes for any beach along the DS. We can tell you the mud is safe and reputed to be therapeutic for the skin. You rub it all over your body and let the DS rinse your blemishes away. Or something like that. It's pretty fun.
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