Jordan boasts an embarrassment of riches when it comes to archaeological treasures. Petra and the Dead Sea garner the lion's share of attention among Jordan's tourist sites, but Jerash, which is about an hour north of Amman, would be the undisputed cultural gem of most countries in the world, and nearby Ajloun Castle is notable for never being taken by those pesky European crusaders in the Middle Ages. These two sites combine for a great day trip north of Amman.
We recommend driving yourself and arriving early to Jerash in order to avoid the crowd that inevitably arrives by mid-morning. As we shared in our full Jordan article, we recommend driving in Jordan rather than taking tour buses. Driving is easy, and rental cars are reasonably priced.
As of late 2018, admission to Jerash is 12 Jordanian Dinars (JOD). If you have the Jordan Pass, admission is covered. We recommend using the Jordan Pass if your total trip itinerary involves Petra, which is quite expensive, or more than a few archaeological sites. They add up quickly.
Jerash is expansive without being overwhelming. Although one must always be careful walking on 2,000-year-old cobblestones, ambling around Jerash is not strenuous, and with many hills throughout the site, there are several vantage points from which one can experience panoramic views.
The major spots at Jerash are Hadrian's Arch, the Oval Plaza, the South Theatre, the Temple of Zeus, and the Temple of Artemis. If you enter through the South Gate, you will pass through Hadrian's Arch, but if you enter from the North Gate, make sure to get all the way to the Arch. There is also a North Theatre that is nice enough, but the South Theatre is larger and better-preserved. Aside from the exceptionally photogenic Oval Plaza, the Temple of Artemis is the jewel of the site, and you can even buy an Arabic coffee from the locals inside the ToA if you wish.
Make sure to take your time at Jerash, but once you're satisfied, it's not far to Ajloun Castle, a Medieval fortification that famously never bowed to invading crusaders.
Ajloun Castle boasts a majestic hilltop location from where one can see that there is quite a bit of green in the north of Jordan, which might come as a surprise considering Jordan's predominantly desert landscape and extreme water scarcity. In the winter, the weather is perfect.
After (or before...or both) enjoying Ajloun Castle, don't miss the excellent coffee, hummus, and other delectable treats at Summaga Cafe, which is in a small visitor center where you will also likely park your car. Find a little table near a window and enjoy the view.
We hope you enjoy your day north of Amman in beautiful Jordan. It's one of our favorite places in the world.
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