Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) has a decent selection of eateries for a wide range of tastes. Here we're going to refresh and streamline our take on our favorites in Districts 1 and 2 having now survived the worst of the Covid-19 pandemic.
Some places have closed, and some have really taken a dive. Some are new, and we're glad we found them.
Firstly, if you want our take on Vietnamese food, have a look at Hot as Phở, Vol. 7: Eating HCMC. To our knowledge, little has changed regarding local bites.
Keep in mind that this list is not meant to be exhaustive. It's just what we like best.
Breakfasses (or, if you don't speak Bosslingo, Breakfast)
Our top picks for morning nums:
Tartine (D2): Tartine is our go-to if we want to step out for brunch. Boss loves their shortbread chocolate-chip cookies, and I'm a big fan of their sourdough creme-filled donuts. And they also have real food. There are locations in An Phu and Thao Dien.
New York Bagel (D2): There are (too) many bagel places in Saigon; we think NYB is the best one - great bagel sandwiches, good cheesecake, and very good coffee (we love NYB's oat milk latte - you have to ask, and there's a tiny upcharge). Order delivery or go to the store on Xuan Thuy.
T.A Kitchen & Bar (D2): We go with T.A Kitchen if we want delivery and want to keep it relatively healthy and simple. Try the avocado toast.
Lubu (D2): Lubu might be the best brunch in town; we just happen to live closer to Tartine. Lubu's a bit upscale - The Boss is on record saying she feels like she can't wear her workout clothes there - that she has to 'dress cute' to go there. This, of course, is why, when we had The Boss' surprise baby shower at Lubu, the dress code was 'gym clothes.' Our faves at Lubu include the fritters and the green eggs and ham. It's hard to go wrong with anything on Lubu's menu, though.
Au Parc (D1): If for whatever reason we're in D1 in the morning, Au Parc is a very nice place to sit, especially if you've just had an embassy or bank visit. Good sandwiches for lunch, too.
Lunch and Dinner - Delivery
Our top picks for not-morning delivery nums:
Gringo Tacos (Mexican - D1): The quesadillas are decadent; the burritos are huge; the tacos are delicious; the DIY tub of guacamole is the stuff dreams are made of. They'll also send you margaritas in plastic bags with the lime and the salt. God bless.
Tacos Fuego (Mexican - D2): Living in D2 (Thao Dien), Tacos Fuego is much faster than Gringo - like 20 minutes instead of 60. The quesadillas are life, and they will make your nachos with tots. Or just chips if you're a traditionalist, I guess.
Parkhaus (German - D1): Excellent käsespätzle, soup, kraut, and apple crumble; good schnitzel; wonderful broth for the sauerbraten; decent selection of imported German beer for Vietnam.
Union Jack's Fish & Chips (D2): Sometimes you just need a chippy, right? It's everything you'd expect.
Pasta Fresca (Italian - D2): Need meatballs quick? Pasta Fresca. Great gnocchi and pesto.
Natraj (Indian - D2): There are quite a few Indian places, but we think Natraj is the best. The set lunch is delicious and a great value, and we have a standing dinner order of chickpea curry, spicy cauliflower, vegetarian samosas, and garlic naan.
Poke Saigon (D1): When you need fish and rice and any toppings you want and you want to eat it with a spoon: Poke Saigon.
Lunch and Dinner - Going Out
Olé (Spanish - D2): Tied for our favorite restaurant in town, Olé offers delicacies from across the Iberian Peninsula, and the owners love babies.
Chevap Saigon (Croatian/Balkan - D2): The other half of our tie for best restaurant in town, Chevap is best enjoyed right out of the kitchen and with the owner's homemade rakia.
Pasha (Turkish - D2): We often order delivery from Pasha, but it is also nice to visit. There are no bad options on their menu, but we prefer anything that involves the word 'iskender.'
Pizza 4P's (D2): Pizza 4P's makes the best pasta and pizza in town, and their restaurant on Xuan Thuy is a treehouse for grownups. They also make their own beer.
Gyumeshiya (Japanese Gyudon - D1): Gyumeshiya makes the best Japanese curry we've had outside of Japan.
Bandido (Mexican - D1): Best Mexican in town; always make a reservation. The weirder the taco sounds, the better it tastes. Seriously.
Treats
Dulce de Saigon (D1): Dulce has the best cinnamon rolls in town and great big cookies. We haven't seen the super-oreo available for a while - ultimate sadness - so right now we go with the red velvet cookie. They also do whole cakes and other large orders with advance notice. Everything they make is delicious. Since Covid began, they've become an on-demand delivery operation for normally sized orders. Thanks, Covid? Order through facebook and confirm via fb messenger.
Ralf's Artisan Gelato (D1 & D2): As with the bagel places, there are myriad ice creameries. Ralf's is the only one you need. We prefer the vanilla, coconut, single origin dark chocolate, and (extremely rarely available) strawberry cheesecake. Order delivery or visit the shop(s).
Marou (D2): Decadent, unbelievably rich brownies, cookies, and hot chocolate. Order delivery or visit.
Groceries
Annam Gourmet (several locations in D2 and elsewhere): If you absolutely must find something, Annam is probably your best bet. This is where we go for laundry detergent, face wash, raisins, non-DEET mosquito repellent, and organic baby foodstuffs.
An Phu Supermarket (D2): Across from the Annam location on Thao Dien Street, go to An Phu for the best prices on most of your staples that don't have to be organic or otherwise fancy, e.g., cereal, jam, toothpaste, soap, shaving supplies, etc.
Le Square (D2): Le Square is typically our best bet for finding the yogurt(s) we want whether cow's milk or coconut. This is also our place for most produce: onions, peppers, sweet potatoes, oranges, etc. Le Square also carries good baby products, lots of wine, and quality prosciutto and smoked salmon, and they're pretty good about delivery.
Legumes (D2): Many attempt to duplicate Legumes, but, in our opinion, none succeed. We regularly stop in for frozen mango, nut butters, banana bread, almonds, dates, dried cranberries, crackers, beans, and GU (for running). And probably a few other things. Also good for delivery.
Humbl. foods (D2): We keep sourcing more and more from here - almond milk, oat milk, overnight oats, granola bowls, and coconut yogurt, usually. They also have nut butters, chocolate, and other items. Super-healthy and pretty yummy.
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I'll take it. All of it. I also have a weirder-is-better taco place if you kids ever find yourselves in Boston.