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Writer's pictureGlobepouncing

Hot as Phở, Vol. 7: Eating HCMC Pre-Covid and During Covid

Updated: May 9, 2022

Eating is the best. It's our favorite thing to do. What - it's not yours? Lies.


When you visit a country or region you want to taste the local dishes, yes, but when you live and work somewhere for a while, especially a large city, you want the best food available, so let's talk about the best food you can find in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam.


Local Food

Your best local food is probably whatever's nearby. For example, a Boss-ass Vietnamese lady we affectionately call 'Lady Noodles' makes our favorite cơm tấm (broken rice) and bún thịt (dry noodles). I once had lunch there every day for a month, and I'd do it again.


Cơm tấm - Vietnamese broken rice with pork
Cơm tấm - the 'broken rice' is under the egg

If you want to find some phở (hot soup with rice noodles, a cinnamon tinge, and, usually, thinly-sliced beef)...I don't know - just go anywhere really. Don't be blind? Or even go ahead and be blind - close your eyes and walk for about forty-five seconds. If you don't get run-over by a motorbike, you'll probably be at a phở shop.


Fun fact: phở is traditionally a breakfast dish. If you walk around for five minutes at 7:00 a.m. and don't see anyone eating phở, you're not in Vietnam. That or the zombie apocalypse.


You can even have phở beer! Furbrew's Bia Phở is actually pretty good - and what would Vietnamese craft beer be without a phở beer? Not Vietnamese enough, I'd say.


Everything you just read about phở - same same for bánh mì (pork sandwich), but add this: if you walk around for five minutes at 7:00 a.m. and don't hear someone on a motorbike selling bánh mì...you understand.


If you want to class up, we have two suggestions: Bếp Võ and Quán Bụi Garden, both in Thao Dien, District 2. Quán Bụi has a lovely location to visit right around the corner from the An Phu Superior Compound. We usually go with Bếp Võ for delivery - our go-to selections are the vegetarian dry noodles with tofu and avocado sauce and the fried spring rolls. The bánh xèo (Vietnamese savory pancake - translates directly to 'sizzle cake') is also very good, but it's much better if you eat it there. It doesn't travel well.


If We're Going Out

If we're actually willing to shower up and go out for dinner, it really has to be worth it with all the delivery options available and with how much of a messy hassle Vietnam is even under normal circumstances.



For going out, we recommend Pasha (Turkish - District 2), Olé (Spanish - D2) Pizza 4P's (D2), Ramen Danbo (D2), Gyumeshiya (Japanese Gyudon - D1), and Bandido (Mexican - D1).

  • Safety first: make a reservation for Pizza 4P's and Bandido

  • Sit upstairs on the balcony at Pasha

  • Olé is probably the most fun one of the bunch to visit because the owners are so wonderful and accommodating, and we love that they let us practice our Spanish with them (and I think they love it, too)

  • Be ready to wait a few minutes during high-traffic times at Danbo

  • Gyumeshiya is tucked away in a seedy-looking back alley a short walk from the Heart of Darkness Brewery (hint hint)


Delivery Champions in Normal Times

After working all day, you'll usually want to order in, and you can order anything.



Our top suggestions are:

  • Gringo Tacos (D1) - The shrimp tacos and fish tacos are the best; the shrimp burrito is also a solid choice; the cheese on the quesadillas is decadent; The Boss loves the bean and cheese burrito, but it's a bit much refried beans for me; and have you ever just needed an absurd amount of perfect guacamole to go with your homemade Mexican feast? Order the DIY guacamole and you'll be all set.

  • Union Jack's Fish & Chips (D2) - Who doesn't love a good chippy on Friday night?

  • Pendolasco (Italian with good wine deals - D2) - Smokin' deals on quality Italian wine and always some sort of a free pizza deal - the only thing about Pendo I don't like is that they don't have meatballs. If you need meatballs, go with Pasta Fresca.

  • Parkhaus (German - D1) - Only place in town with käsespätzle; good soups and schnitzels; Hofbrau beer.

  • Haubi's (also German - D2) - Haubi's is mostly a catering operation, but they deliver meals through their 'Der Imbiss Bistro' - they have excellent red cabbage, sauerkraut, potato sides, and schnitzel; the only thing is that you usually have to order at least a day in advance.

  • Jake's BBQ (D1) - From Jake's we like to order a little meat and then pretty much every side on the menu - dreams do come true.

  • Poke Saigon (D1) - When you need fish and rice and any toppings you want and you want to eat it with a spoon: Poke Saigon.


Covid Lockdown Lifelines

These places deserve shouts and hollers - and lots of orders and money - for doing everything they possibly could to keep our bellies happy during the Directive 16 debacle in HCMC.

  • Uncle Klaus (D2) - Oh my sweet baby Jesus H. Murphy, why did we not learn about Uncle Klaus sooner!? Oh, right - we learned about him when scrounging for places to feed us in the early days of the dreaded Directive 16. Everything on Uncle Klaus' concise menu is friggin' delicious; our favorites are the Maultaschen dumplings, the homemade dill and garlic pickles, and the Kalter Hund chocolate fudge cake. This is the best German food we've had outside of Germany.

  • Hungry Bunny (D1) - Best mac'n'cheese in town and good burgers

  • Café Tartine (D2) - Tartine, already one of our favorite breakfast places, re-opened for delivery after being shut down for a while in the early part of Directive 16. Although they and everyone else had to shut down again as part of the supermax Directive 16++ in late August, we appreciate the effort for the couple of weeks you came back this summer. See you when the zombie apocalypse is over.


Enjoying Tartine in Thao Dien
Looking forward to this again, Tartine. Love you! Miss you! Thanks a lot, Covid.

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