If you're looking for an accessible slice of traditional Arabia, Oman - called the "Norway of the Middle East" by some - is the place to go. This flattering appellation has much to do with the magnificent Musandam area with its desert fjords in the Strait of Hormuz, but other treasures await all ye who Globepounceth in the capital and its surrounding areas.
Muscat is a relaxed collection of neighborhoods resourcefully built into its rugged, mountainous seaside geography. The Mutrah corniche area is well-kept but not excessively developed. You'll find lovely walks and open space along the corniche and into the Riyam Park area. The two day trips we chose were inland to Nizwa and down the coast to Wadi Shab.
General Advice
If you fly into Muscat, you will need to have secured a visa in advance. This is relatively new (early 2019). It isn't hard, but you have to do it. You can use the Omani government's own Evisa site or the third party iVisa site, which some might find easier to navigate - use whichever is more comfortable for you.
As with anywhere in the Middle East, you want a car to pounce around Oman - best to book one in advance for pick-up at the airport upon arrival. In Oman and the UAE, we found Dollar and Avis worked best for us. Use whichever car rental outfit works best for you.
We don't always pay up for accommodations, but on this trip we stayed at the Crowne Plaza Muscat. No complaints.
As with any journey in the desert, you want to wear light, breathable clothing that gives you sun cover. Have a head scarf on the ready, and anything that is a linen-cotton blend is a good idea. Same same with pretty much anywhere in the Middle East.
Sights in Muscat
We've already mentioned the Mutrah corniche area, where you can walk along the water and see the Sultan's yacht, hike into Riyam Park and see the massive incense burner, and take all the photos of the picturesque hilltop Mutrah Fort.
In just the last few years, in fact, Mutrah Fort has begun to accept visitors. This development is recent enough that people will still tell you that this is not possible. It is. I would not be surprised, though, if the hours were subject to change. Check before you go, especially if it's hot outside, and definitely don't try on holidays. We were there during the Eid Al-Fitr, so the Mutrah Fort was not an option for us. That's okay - the best photos of the fortress itself are taken from the street. What a trip up to the hilltop fortress really offers are wide views of the corniche.
Don't miss the Mutrah Gold Souk. If you ever wanted to feel like Aladdin and have something that you might be able to call a treasure of Arabia, this is the place to find it. If you want to take pictures, buy something first and be sure to ask permission.
The Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque is another must-see. Similar in grandeur to the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque in Abu Dhabi, Sultan Qaboos' mosque is a bit greener and has a bit more color. Also, you can amble about the main hall on your own and discuss Islam and natural air conditioning with volunteer Quranic scholars.
Nizwa
We enjoyed Nizwa more than any other place in the Muscat area. We set out quite early - 4:30 a.m. - in a futile attempt to catch a glimpse of the goat market, which normally starts at 6 a.m. on Fridays.
We rocked up around 6:30 and thought we'd be okay because we read that goats and sheep run from 6-7 and then cows go at 7, but it was empty when we got there - completely empty.
At first, we thought we must have missed it - perhaps it went very quickly today, we thought. The stalls were a ghost town, though - I think I even saw a tumbleweed - and then we thought it must have been off because that weekend was Eid Al-Fitr. The concierge at the hotel seemed to think the market would still go on and, perhaps, that it would be even bigger than usual because of the Eid - people need animals to feast, after all! We were excited. Yeah, well. Apparently not. The non-goat-market was even stranger because Nizwa Castle and the rest of the Nizwa Souq were very much open. I suppose it's not for a common Westerner to understand the mysteries of Arabia...
Despite missing the Friday goat market, we still loved Nizwa. We typically enjoy towns and smaller cities that are less crowded and less geared toward tourists. The souq was lovely, and since we were there so flippin' early we had the place to ourselves for a while. In fact, we had to go find coffee and walk around town for at least an hour waiting for everything else to open. It was a peaceful morning, and the castle was lovely. It's quite large; we'd describe it as a much larger, more labyrinthine version of Khasab Castle in Musandam.
Wadi Shab
Wadi means valley in Arabic. If you've heard the term, you've likely heard of Wadi Rum (Valley of the Romans) in Jordan. Lawrence of Arabia was filmed there. Also in Jordan is Wadi Musa (Valley of Moses), which is the passage to Petra. Wadi Shab (Young Valley) in Oman is a light hiking and swimming expedition. To reach the beginning of the wadi, you take a short boat ride for (as of 2019) one Omani rial, which covers your round trip fare.
There is plenty of parking around the entrance to Wadi Shab. We parked a few blocks away and up a hill with no problem at no cost. As with the drive to Nizwa, the trip from Muscat to Wadi Shab should take a little over an hour and a half.
We went in the summer. The heat was murder. We recommend going in a cooler season. Be ready to get wet, especially if you go in a cooler season. We recommend Crocs or something like them for your feet. You want tough soles for the rocky terrain, but you also want to be able to take on sand and water with no problem. Dress accordingly, and if you go any time around summer, be ready to sweat out every last drop of your impurities. Bring plenty of water and whatever snacks you would take on a camping trip.
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