Welcome to Globepouncing's Hot as Phở series on Vietnam! First stop: Da Nang and Hoi An.
Hoi An is a tiny gem in central Vietnam. It's walkable and cheap; there are temples; it has a marina, markets, and incredible resorts; it's near the beach. It's as photogenic as a kitten in a bowtie riding a golden retriever in front of a Christmas tree.
I imagine it's one of those little towns that all the other little towns love to hate because it's so perfect and adorable, and everyone loves it. I shudder to think of the petty gossip the other towns spread about Hoi An. Jealousy as green as baby coconuts...
I suppose, then, that the other towns might find cosmic justice in the fact that Hoi An is also typically crawling with tourists. As fortune would have it, we happened upon Hoi An during the COVID-19 coronavirus mayhem, so we were able to enjoy a relatively empty Hoi An, which we highly recommend but doubt ever happens much outside of, you know, global pandemic situations and such. Sorry.
Full disclosure: The WHO declared COVID-19 a global pandemic while we were in Hoi An. We are refraining from any further travel until the summer months and staying home as much as possible. It is very possible to pass along COVID-19 to more vulnerable populations even if you yourself do not suffer serious symptoms - or any symptoms at all. Check out this unflinching article in Newsweek.
Anyway -- Hoi An is great. We stayed at what is sure to be a new addition to our annual top-fives this year: La Siesta Hoi An Resort & Spa. You can see Globepouncing's Tripadvisor review on La Siesta here. Note the title: I'd Rate It 6 if I Could. I felt like I had been relaxing for weeks after just a few days.
I woke up for early morning photo walks in town a couple of mornings, and each day after breakfast we strolled into town for a snack and coffee and more snaps. The Japanese Covered Bridge is at the core of Hoi An's adorable downtown. It's a great spot for pictures from any angle.
If you turn toward the river after popping out of the east side of the covered bridge, you'll be on a marina with a fleet of colorful boats. You can cross the Cau An Hoi 'Bridge of Lights' near here to enjoy the island portion of the Minh An downtown district where you can find loads more places to enjoy treats and have custom suits tailored.
You can, of course, take a boat ride from the marina. The sunset rides are popular. Don't be shy about haggling with the boat operators.
If you continue on through the wet market of the Minh An district, you'll find another bridge on Hoang Dieu road over to Cam Nam island where you can find yet more places to sit for nibbles and coffee. If you're looking for a book while you're in Hoi An, you can check out Randy's Book Exchange on Cam Nam. Randy has a good selection of titles in several different languages. He also has friendly cats.
While in Hoi An, you'll surely want to take an excursion to the My Son Sanctuary, a UNESCO World Heritage site. It's an impressive place - I call it Angkor Jr. It's very well-kept, and there are fewer people there in the hot afternoon hours if you're willing to brave the heat. You can make it through the site in under two hours, which is what your driver will expect.
You might also wish to go to the beach. Most resorts have a shuttle to and from a stretch of beach. An Bang beach is a nice one, and La Siesta guests are guaranteed chairs and umbrellas at An Bang. Check into what sorts of beach perks your accommodation offers before you go.
Hoi An is tiny enough that it doesn't have its own airport. One flies to nearby Da Nang and then drives about forty minutes to reach Hoi An. Most people who have been will tell you that Da Nang is underwhelming when compared to Hoi An, and, largely, this is true. However, this doesn't mean that Da Nang isn't worth a day's exploration before you head off for Hoi An's abundance of charm. We stayed in Da Nang for a day at the start of our trip. We thought that if Hoi An were really that much better then we should start in Da Nang and finish in Hoi An, and that worked out well for us.
If you take a day in Da Nang, do it on the weekend because on the weekend you get to see this:
and this:
Yes, that's right. The dragon bridge comes alive at 9:00 p.m. on Saturdays and Sundays.
In Da Nang, one can also enjoy the 7 Bridges Brewing Company taproom, which is steps away from the dragon bridge.
Otherwise, in Da Nang, as with any other Vietnamese city, it's just nice to roam around and stop off for coffee and nibbles from time to time. We certainly always enjoy a good Cong coconut coffee.
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